"An alternative world is possible."

I'd like to include a quote which I included as the last passage of my final paper for the Kenya program. What Shivji says is true, "An alternative world IS possible."


Let's make it happen!

“We have to choose sides: the side of those who are struggling for a better world and against those who want to maintain the existing one. We simply cannot be neutral . . . It is struggling for an alternative world, a better world, which has changed the past and will continue to change the present for a better future. We, the activists . . . must continue to fight for a better world.
An alternative world is possible.”

- Issa G. Shivji, Reflections on NGOs in Tanzania: What We Are, What We Are Not, and What We Ought to Be

Home

Back home now and the contrast between Nairobi and home in the US is stark. Definite culture shock flying into Amsterdam, Minneapolis and finally Seattle. Things aren't better here, but it is striking how much more organized, green, clean, perhaps modern is the right word, things seem here - and in a way I never paid much attention to before.

Feeling thankful for the experiences I have had in Kenya and looking forward to incorporating them into daily life from now forward.

I'm including below one of my favorite Prof. Ngugi quotes. He sent this to our class in an email before the program departed for Kenya this summer:

I can only join you on the mat you are lying on and stare up at the stars in the sky with you and wonder if the stellar constellation above is cryptic spelling for “hope.”

- Prof. Joel Ngugi

With confidence, I can say I do believe the stars spell "hope" for us all. Without that, we are lost. As long as humanity persists, we will always have hope, faith and courage to move forward, to work for human rights, to pursue our passions and convictions, to care for our friends and family, and perhaps most importantly: to envision a more just, peaceful, humanitarian world ~~

Welcome home, classmates and program staff. To friends and family in the US: can't wait to see you!

Wrapping Up ~

This will be one of my final posts as our program in Nairobi is wrapping up! We submitted our final papers yesterday and had a final program meeting and farewell dinner last night. It was nice to spend time thanking our site supervisors and coworkers at our various internships.
I think we all feel good about the program and everything that we have learned and experienced.
I feel very grateful for this experience and again want to THANK Professor Ngugi, our program staff, my fellow classmates, friends and family at home and the community of Jennifer Caldwell who helped make this opportunity possible for me.

It will take me months, maybe years to process all that I have learned, witnessed and experienced here in Kenya. I can't even express how much I appreciate this experience and how much it has changed me as a person. Now the obligation of what I will do with and apply this experience and learning rests with me. I hope for strength and guidance in these endeavors ~~~

I close with a quote:

if you're going to be passionate about something, be passionate about learning.
if you're going to fight something, fight for those in need.
if you're going to question something, question authority.
if you're going to lose something, lose your inhibitions.
if you're going to gain something, gain respect and confidence.
and if you're going to hate something, hate the false idea that you are not capable of your dreams.

- daniel golston

Human Rights Project - Presentation

Yesterday we presented our final human rights project to Professor Ngugi and three representatives from Loitokitok Village, where we conducted our research.
The presentation was about our suggested "Learning Resource Center." (Again, these are humble recommendations and observations only, with the focus being on leadership and impetus from the local village.) The center would include a "home environment," draw on community resources, and collaborate with local "community-based organizations." It would in theory include a library, health center, and counseling and mentorship program. We emphasized that it is the community's project, but that we are standing by to assist with grants, fundraising, and connections as desired and appropriate.
The presentation was a big success - both our professor and the community members were very pleased. We feel this is the beginning of a long partnership, and it is very exciting!
Above, I have attached photos from the Kenya Human Rights Commission (KHRC grounds, where I have been interning). The 2nd photo is from a poster in the KHRC lobby (if you are interested in expansion on this topic, I am happy to share my finally paper with you).
With kindest regards and warm wishes from Kenya!

Final Days in Nairobi ~ ~

This is our last week in Nairobi. My classmates and I are spending our time drafting our final human rights project report, writing final papers and preparing for presentations on both the human rights project in Loitokitok and about our respective internship sites. The human rights project itself is a great learning experience as we are seeing hands-on the challenges and complexities of approaching human rights work ethically, and also the challenge of working together in a large group of 15 passionate individuals, each with their own perspectives and ideas. It is, however, overall a positive experience and we are looking forward to presenting our findings to representatives from Loitokitok Village and DEB Primary School, where we engaged in the research and human rights work.

We will have a final farewell dinner this coming Friday with the entire program staff, their families, and our site supervisors.

Things are going quite well, and this has been a tremendous learning experience. My classmates are amazing, our professor is exceptional and the program design continues to amaze.

Quote ~

"Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. It is our light, not our darkness that most frightens us. We ask ourselves, Who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, fabulous? Actually, who are younot to be? You are a child of God. Your playing small does not serve the world. There is nothing enlightened about shrinking so that other people won't feel insecure around you. We are all meant to shine, as children do. We were born to make manifest the glory of God that is within us. It's not just in some of us; it's in everyone. And as we let our own light shine, we unconsciously give other people permission to do the same. As we are liberated from our own fear, our presence automatically liberates others.”

- Our Deepest Fear by Marianne Williamson from A Return To Love: Reflections on the Principles of A Course in Miracles

Future ~

"The future is no place to place your better days."
– Dave Matthews, Cry Freedom

Have a great weekend ~~

Human Rights Project

Our human rights project has begun taking shape. We will be focusing on the following areas:
- Dorm
- Resource Center
- Resources (local, us)
- How to (proposal writing etc., access to funds and other NGOs, etc., HRs language)

We were assigned a "human rights project" and in turn conducted research to determine what might be an appropriate response to the community's stated need of a new or renovated girl's dorm.

Based on our research and interviews, we also feel that a resource center with career, academic, pleasure and other reading as well as counseling services, first aid and computer lab services would be beneficial. While we are not in a position to fund such a project, we plan to work with the local community to fundraise, IF they see these projects as priorities for them.

Finals

We only have 10 days left here! We are all busy writing our final papers and preparing our final human rights project. The human rights project is a recommended "resource center" for the students at DEB Primary School. We are also offering to partner with the local community to write grants, apply for funding, gain access to additional resources, etc. BUT from my perspective, any change has to be initiated and led from the local community. The human rights project itself has been a tremendous learning experience and all of us are very grateful. We present our final product to the Chair of the Board and School Director this coming Tuesday.
Wishing each of you peace and happiness. I look forward to reconnecting with friends and family from home very soon. Much love from Kenya!

Safari Photos

Masai Mara was magnificent - truly a magical place. Photos above!

Masai Mara

Our group is headed to Masai Mara for 3 days, back on Tuesday.
I promise to post photos and an update soon!

Hope you are having a great weekend!

A Little Inspiration

what you are in love with, what seizes your imagination, will affect everything. it will decide what gets you out of bed in the mornings, what you do with your evenings, how you spend your weekends, what you read, who you know, what breaks your heart, and what amazes you. fall in love, stay in love, and it will decide everything.

- pedro arrupe

Masai Mara

This weekend our group is headed to Masai Mara.
After a peaceful referendum, people here are overjoyed. It looks like the new consitution will be voted in. At the moment 65% of the votes are pointing to YES!
Our group is working intently on our human rights project. We are coalescing all of the various interviews and research we completed in Loitokitok and will then work out what action we might take. It is looking as though issues such as food security, safety, and access to resources and information might take precedence over the boarding school. But, it is too early to predict the outcome of uor human rights project. In my opinion, the process here is just as important as the outcome because one of the main foci of this course is on approaching human rights in an ethical, thoughtful manner. Therefore, it is less important to rush into a "solution" and more important to proceed ethically and thoughtfully, all the while focused on what may be an effective, viable, sustainable outcome that does benefit and further the human rights of the local community. This must be done in strong partnership, or accompaniment, and not "imposed" by us as outsiders! That is what I appreciate most about this project - the opportunity to learn in a hands-on manner all of the development and human rights theory I have been studying for the past 2 years.
Have a great end of the week. I will post photos of the safari upon our return.

Referendum Calm and Peaceful

Today's referendum proved to be calm and peaceful, free of violence and unrest. While the results are as of yet unclear, the process itself seems to have been a success. I just want to reassure family and friends of the situation here, as the media has portrayed stories of heightened tension and possible unrest.

We are all doing great! In fact, I am so excited for the people of Kenya as the new constitution affords them much greater rights, freedoms, and accountability of their government. While of course the document is not perfect, it is a positive step forward.

Referendum Day

PHOTOS:

Above, I have included some photos from around where we live. You can see the contrast of our pool with the tall walls and barbed wire enclosing us in our apartment buildings vs. the outside environment. It is an interesting paradox to live in, and being more restricted in terms of mobility makes you appreciate the freedom and access at home.

REFERENDUM DAY:

Today is quiet. We are not allowed to leave our apartment compound due to the referendum taking place. (While all indications point to a very peaceful process, the University of Washington is cautious about such matters and thus have imposed these restrictions.)

I talked to the security guard this morning about his perspective on the constitutional vote. He was so excited to vote! I saw 2 other Kenyans as well around our complex and they were absolutely enthused to cast their vote! The polls are marking voters pinky fingers with indelible purple ink so that they may not vote more than once.

I have been watching the news as well and it appears to be a peaceful and orderly process. The referendum was on the front page of the New York Times yesterday. It is truly a monumental event for Kenya – as I mentioned, my coworker at Kenya Human Rights Commission (KHRC) feels it is more important even than independence from Britain in 1963!

So today is a quiet day for us. I am mainly catching up on schoolwork. Tomorrow hopefully we will know the results of the election (but the outcome may be delayed as it often takes time to tally the votes and due to long travel distances, sometimes the voting process here can take days). If the outcome is a YES for the new constitution, my colleagues at KHRC plan to celebrate! KHRC was deeply involved with the drafting of the new constitution, as has been a top supporter of the legislature.
I will write more soon when there is news!

.

Upcoming Referendum

Hi all! How are you?

Things here in Kenya are great. This coming week is a very important one as on Wednesday, August 4th, and likely on the 5th as well (because often voting here takes more than one day due to long travel times, lines, the time it takes to tally the votes, etc.) are the dates of the referendum which will decided whether the NEW proposed constitution of Kenya is enacted or not. It is quite contentious actually, with heated debates in both the YES and NO camps.

We had a speaker in class last week about the proposed constitution. She really helped us to understand the main issues revolving around the constitution. At the core of the debate are land rights and the influence and jurisdiction of Khadis courts (Muslim courts) and abortion (which is illegal in Kenya.) Interestingly, the new constitution also cuts down on the % of the Kenyan government budget allocated for development – from 30% to 10%. This is probably the biggest drawback of the new constitution, because it would then potentially increase Kenya’s reliance on outside aid.

So this coming week will be one day of KHRC internship, class on Tuesday and then due to the referendum on Wed. and Th. My classmates and I are planning to spend the time beginning our final papers for this course. Friday we have class, on a very interesting topic – the role of human rights and “are human rights part of the problem” – in other words, discussing human rights from a critical perspective. Saturday is free, then on Sunday we head to MASAI MARAA for the SAFARI weekend! I literally cannot wait to see lions, giraffes and elephants in the wild. It may be too much for me!

I hope you are all happy, peaceful and doing well. I send all my love from Kenya!

Tribute to Jennifer Caldwell

“Some people come into our lives and quickly go.
Some stay for awhile and leave footprints on our hearts.
And we are never, ever the same.”

I have been meaning to do this for a while: this post is a TRIBUTE TO JENNIFER CALDWELL! Thank you, Jen, for inspiring me and sharing your community with me. I want to thank Linda, Angelina, Michelle, Jen's family and friends, and everyone at the University of Washington Center for Human Rights for providing me with the opportunity to study in Kenya this summer through the Jennifer Caldwell fund. Jen was an amazing human rights activist and person who sadly passed away last year while in South Africa engaged with human rights work.
I wish I had known her while she was alive, but I do feel that her heart and spirit live on. I see that clearly in my colleague, Lydia, who is here in Kenya (and also a recipient of the Caldwell Award). Lydia is a bright and shining spirit, a strong woman and leader who has amazing things in store for her! She has shared with me that the Caldwell Award was a big part of what made her studies and work in Kenya this summer possible. This summer, Lydia is working at the Refugee Consortium of Kenya (RCK), advocating for the human rights and dignity of refugees in Kenya. I was with her one day at RCK, and she did a lovely job completing the initial interview for a young woman refugee who was in Kenya, fleeing Somalia.
Words of course fall short in expressing my appreciation and grattitude, but thank you to the community of Jennifer Caldwell. Thank you for sharing your love and experience of Jen with Lydia and me, and with the UW and human rights communities.
Thank you also to Jen for inspiring me. The Caldwell Award is such a tremendous honour due to the person behind it. Moreover, I see the award as a great source of strength. Human rights work isn't easy, it often isn't light - it is challenging and at times grim. Yet in times of doubt, I can look to Jen's memory to give me strength. Surely she would have pushed on through this doubt, that hurdle or challenge. Feeling this strong, passionate dedication, the commitment that Jen had to human rights (which I have only heard of through her family and friends) has been a great source of courage to me. I can only say thank you from the bottom of my heart, and express my gratitude for sharing your memories of Jen with me. The photo of Jen above was published by the UW Weekly. The UW Center for Human Rights has established a fund in Jen's name. If you feel moved to donate to this fund, please click on the link at the top of this page.

Loitokitok Photos

Here are various photos from our recent trip to Loitokitok! It was a very special and spectacular trip.
The building and internal pictures are photos of the girl's boarding school at DEB primary school. This building was the impetus for our human rights project, and the reason we were in Loitokitok. The dorm houses many young women who are escaping early/forced marriages or other human rights issues. As you can see, the dorms are somewhat rundown and there aren't many amenities or comforts in them. The focus of our interviews was to determine what, if any, type of human rights intervention might be appropriate. We are studying and analyzing this at the moment, being cognizant of the various ethical issues involved, and working towards an end result (of which the outcome is as of yet unclear).
Next, you will see the teacher's breakroom at the DEB Primary School. I loved this room due to the beautiful turquoise colour.
The resort-like photo is Kibo Slopes, were we stayed the first few nights.
Next is a soccer action shot from our intense game: Dr. Mganga vs. Super Mugakas!
The tree photos are 1) from our hike to the Tanzanian border and 2) an example of the unique trees around here.
Next, my favorite photo: the donkey cart which daily transported water around Loitokitok. The entrepreneurs with the (much too) cute donkey are selling the water to local proprietors.
After the donkey photo is a second common animal in Loitokitok - goats. They are all over the place, mainly cleaning things up by eating various items around town. :-)
At the very bottom, you can see our intrepid van, which transports us all over, from our internships to our excursions to Loitokitok and soon Maasai Mara for a safari. :-)

Loitokitok Village

So sorry for my delay in posting. We have been away during the past days. I promise to post photos soon!
So much has happened since I last wrote. 7 days have passed, but it feels like 7 centuries.
While we have been in Loitokitok for about the past week, I do want to write about something that happened before we left. I was able to accompany some Kenya Human Rights Commission staff to a torture trial for 20 survivors of torture conducted during the Moi era. The individuals were granted 3 – 5 million Shillings in restitution. Afterwards, a press conference was held. Our Deputy Executive Director addressed the press, which was really neat to see. He is quite a name in Kenya and has in fact been instrumental in drafting the new proposed constitution of Kenya. Following the press conference, there was a tour of the Nyayo house torture chamber. This area has been preserved in the name of documentation and as a witness to the past and meant to maintain memory of this history, and hopefully to learn from it. Touring these torture cells was one of the scariest things I have ever done. I was literally shaking the entire time. It was beyond creepy, beyond dark and scary. It actually haunted me for the first few days afterwards.
We have been in Loitokitok Village for the past 7 days. It has been a TRULY wonderful and magnificent experience. I love it here and the contrast between Loitokitok and Nairobi is stark, the gap between the town and the city vast. The charm of Loitokitok lies in the peaceful, relaxed pace of life, the friendly, disarming smiles of the local people, the endless dust which clings to your clothes and seeps into your pores, and perhaps the legend of our Professor which is very much apparent here.
While we were all perhaps slightly nervous about the homestay experiences, they have (as I expected actually) turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip so far). That being said, it seems every corner I turn here, I stumble upon another highlight, another best day so far in Kenya. The grace and hospitality of the Kenyans is expansive, stretches far, and embraces you. You feel quite at home immediately I feel.
With Mama Muthoni, my host family “mother,” I immediately felt at home. She is very sweet, yet also an extremely shrewd businesswoman, owning and running 3 shops in Loitokitok. One specializes in cosmetic products, the other 2 in shoes and clothing.
The first four days here were spent staying at Kibo Slopes at night. The first day we were here we toured DEB school, the school with which we are partnership to potentially (if it appears appropriate) partner with. After the tour we were treated to a Swahili lesson by the leading students in the school. I was blessed by being paired with “Kelvin” – the most self-assured, confident and charming 14 year old I have ever met. Such a leader! He led me through a series of Swahili language lessons in a very focused manner. I was blown away not only by his impeccable English, but also by his clear leadership skills. The other UW students reported that they had similar experiences and were equally charmed by the very talented Swahili Mwalimus (teachers) or DEB Kenyan school students with which they were paired.
Following the Swahili lesson SOCCER ruled the rest of the day. This was a truly once in a lifetime experience. Our UW cohort had 4 on 4 teams pre-determined, each of which also had a student “coach.” Our team had full team spirit and had purchased matching soccer uniforms just for the event. The soccer game was a huge deal. Actually, the entire DEB school body, hundreds and hundreds of adorable Kenyan primary school students, literally ran after our van. The entire school came to watch! It was pretty hilarious because most of us were super soccer novices – soccer is so HUGE in Kenya and most of the rest of the world beyond the US it was ironic that the 8 “wazungus” starring in the soccer match. Our professor had even hired a professional ref – a Kenyan, who was truly awesome with his graying hair, big beard, and huge smile. He was serious, though, when some locals tried to ride their motorcycle through the middle of our soccer field during the middle of the game, or to saunter through, he had none of it, and blew his ref whistle loudly in their face, gesturing frantically for them to GET OFF HIS FIELD. That coupled with the cows that were originally in the soccer field and the debris which they left on the field made for definitely an interesting game
Another big highlight has been meeting our professor’s family, especially his mother “Mama Lucy.” (**Note that in Kenya often parents are called “Mama” – Mom or “Baba” Dad Lucy or whatever the name of their oldest child is. It is important in Kenyan culture which child is the “first born” or the “last born” and seemingly an honour to be either of these esteemed positions within the family, and family is central to Kenyan culture!) Mama Lucy is an angel, the epitome of welcoming, and exhibiting the utmost in graciousness. In fact she told us the first night that we were in her home that we are “all her new children” which would mean we are brothers and sisters with our professor! I felt this was such a great promotion!
Saturday morning we visited an HIV/AIDS clinic which was extremely sobering. It is definitely heartening and hopeful that such facilities exist, yet the flaws in the international aid system are so apparent. The sister at the center emphasized the fact that most HIV/AIDS clinics are similarly small, but that they are too small to receive large grants from big donors such as the US PEPFAR program. Even more alarming is the position of woman in Kenyan society, and how it puts them at grave danger for HIV/AIDS infection.
Anyways, after the clinic, we went to the Loitokitok market, which was nice. People bought a lot of cloth, skirts, scarves etc.
The next day was Sunday and we went to church with our professor. The service lasted 3 hours! And it was all in Swahili! Though I did not understand much, I DID absolutely love the music. They had these really cool instruments and all of the songs had some choreographed hand motions accompanying them. So cool and so joyous!
After church we had lunch and headed out for a hike. We hiked to the Tanzanian border and then to a cave and waterfall! Was quite nice to get out in the fresh air and to experience the countryside. Everything is interesting – even the fact that there are chickens and goats just wandering around free. The goats eat the garbage and there are also often mule-driven carts which transport various goods around town.
Monday was FULL of interviews for our “hands-on human rights project.” This is where our human rights applied work begins. We have been charged with investigating what, if any, intervention or partnership might be forged with the DEB School. So Monday our group of 15 students split into groups of 3 to interview various groups: students, parents, teachers, government and education officials to ask for their take on the human rights situation. My group interviewed 2 Ministry of Education officials, which was *quite* interesting. We also interviewed a Maasai staff person, a woman from the local Maasai community.
Monday night we were all dispatched to our host families. I was quite curious when our Program Director dropped me off in a shop in the middle of town. Of course this was Mama Muthoni’s shop. I joined her for about an hour in her shop, before we walked home. Being in her shop was like being in Willy Wonka’s candy factory! Meaning that it was such an interesting novelty, all the products in there were so interesting and unique and different from home. Each of her customers was so unique, and I loved the way she interacted with them. She has had her shop for 23 years so she knows her customers quite well, even if doesn’t know their name, she knows their faces. What a parade of characters in Mama Muthoni’s shop. I was immediately enamored with the shop and with Mama Muthoni.
The walk home was quite pleasant – like maybe a mile and we walked right at dusk. Dusk is such a bewitching hour, and especially in this Kenyan village. I much enjoyed our walk home and Mama Muthoni’s house was very nice as well. I enjoyed dinner with her, her nice Margaret, Margaret’s baby and the housekeeper, Anne.
Today unfortunately our interview with the District Commissioner was cancelled because he was busy orchestrating a “YES” rally for the upcoming constitutional referendum. So we have been spending time at the Catholic Church where we have been meeting to eat and conduct interviews. This afternoon we will be speaking to the students at DEB, sharing our stories regarding our education and goals and how we have arrived at where we are today. Then, after closing remarks from the DEB headmaster, we return to our host families for another dinner, a final night. Tomorrow we return to Nairobi and will resume with our internships, coursework and life as usual in Nairobi.
I will miss Loitokitok very much and have REALLY enjoyed my stay here. It is wonderful to get a small glimpse into life in a small Kenyan village, and to experience the contrast to Nairobi, to feel the contours of this tight-knit community.

Ngong Hills and Beyond . . .

Photos shown here: Ngong Hills, directly outside of Nairobi

On Sunday this week our group was able to hike the Ngong hills. It was great! Actually fabulous to be out in the fresh air, in the hills, being active. That is something I miss here – the freedom to be able to go out when and where you want, and especially the freedom to go on a RUN or jog whenever you like. (The change of perspective is great, because it teaches you what you really love, and to appreciate it more! Nairobi is also great in teaching me precious skills of patience and flexibility – you just have to be those things here as things just take a bit longer generally than what you are used to!)

One of the interesting things about the hike was that we were required to be escorted by two guards carrying huge guns. Please don’t be alarmed – they are for the purpose of warding off any wild animals that might cross our path – buffaloes, etc. We didn’t actually see any animals, but apparently it is a danger in the Ngong Hills.

Our guide was great – his name is Gibson and he actually guides Mt. Kenya and Mt. Kilimanjaro. I definitely got his contact information because that sounds AWESOME! (George, Sevve, or other takers on this expedition idea? : ) )

Monday was an internship day, and the Kenya Human Rights Commission (KHRC) continues to go well. I am spending a lot of time reading all of their various human rights reports. The information is very important, and it is critical that past human rights violations in Kenya be documented. However, the stories are heart-breaking. It is at times challenging to be immersed in such dark material. I have the utmost of respect for human rights practitioners that grapple with these issues day in and day out. Right before leaving Seattle, I read an article in World Pulse called “What’s the point of the revolution if we can’t dance?” It was all about human rights workers and the high potential for burn-out. It is indeed important to preserve oneself so that one can be of service to others.

Usually on Tuesdays I have Swahili and a human rights seminar BUT since there was an important program meeting at KHRC, I attended that instead. The meeting was quite interesting – 3.5 hours long, followed by Kenyan food for lunch! Our Deputy Executive Director spoke in depth about the impending August 4th referendum, when Kenya will vote on the new proposed constitution of Kenya. Due to this huge event, what one of my colleagues at KHRC has said will be “the biggest event in Kenyan history – even bigger than independence,” it is a VERY interesting time to be in Kenya. The YES and NO camps are intensely debating the issue. At this point, the polls show that a large majority are in support of the new constitution.

Tomorrow I am at KHRC again, and then early on Thursday morning, our group departs for our professor’s native village, where we will be engaging in a hands-on human rights project. We will be researching and conducting interviews to assess what might be done to renovate a girl’s boarding school in the village which has fallen into disrepair. The school houses many young women and girls who are fleeing early and forced marriages, or who are escaping ‘harmful’ (depending on your perspective…) traditional practices.

I am really looking forward to this experience in the village and working on this project. We will be staying in cottages for the first few nights, and then we have full-on Kenyan family homestays for 2 nights. This is truly an incredible opportunity and the details involved in arranging homestays for 15 people blows my mind! (Thank you, professor!) It will be a good experience – we will eat with our host families, go to work with them, and experience a change of pace from many of the Western luxuries we are so accustomed to (like indoor showers and restrooms : ) ).

We return from the village next Wednesday, so I may not be able to post before then. Thanks so much for reading, though. I miss you, family, friends and colleagues in the US and elsewhere and send all my love!

And, for George, I hope you read this: Happy 4 year Anniversary!

KIBERA & HAMOMI

KIBERA:

Friday we journeyed to Kibera slum (informal settlement). It was actually a magical day. Most all of because my experience in Kibera on Friday was like nothing I had expected. It was, in fact, the best day that I have had in Kenya so far. Kibera is full of energy, full of bustling people, full of kids, business people, homes and yes, sewage, flies, mangy dogs and for sanitation, pit latrines and public toilets only. Our professor (as always) put it so eloquently – the citizens of Kibera are so resourceful and entrepreneurial – one should consider it an honour to be their ally. Kiberans survive and exist without the support of the Kenyan government, which fails to recognize that Kibera exists, therefore rendering Kiberans without citizenship status.

Our first visit in Kibera was a school. We toured the school, and then the students performed some plays, poems, songs and dance for us. It was quite amazing. What I loved most about it was the level of engagement clearly demonstrated by the kids. They loved it. I think their performance gave them a great amount of pride and confidence. One thing this visit is imprinting on my heart is the ultimate level of resilience and flexibility that humans have. It is astounding – people simply adapt to their environment, surroundings, resources available, etc. I am not saying it is easy, first of all I can never know what someone else’s life is like, whether it is my best friend in Seattle, or a fellow human in Kibera – as our professor has warned us against any sense of “false solidarity” – while I know I can never know what another’s life or reality is like, I can say that while life may not be easy, I did see a great deal of evidence who are working, striving, who are hopeful, who smile, who laugh, who start their own businesses, etc.

What DOES work in Kibera, at least to some extent, is the amazing work of some NGOs and religious organizations. For example, we visited a Catholic school and church in Kibera, which was quite beautiful. The church was complete with stained glass, there were trees around the yard, and the school was fine, made of wood, and kept quite clean. The headmistress we met there was amazing – she is a Catholic nun and explained that her and her sisters are there precisely because Kibera is (in some ways) marginalized and that they go there because no one else will. She explained that she does her work not for money, but for the kids, for her community, for the school, for her church. She explained many of the challenges her school faces, a significant one, for example, being that once the teachers in her school are trained, they are able to obtain jobs with the government which pay much more, so often teachers will leave after teaching for only one year at the school.
We were able to walk through the slum, through the narrow alleyways and walkways. They are rough, uneven, muddy, littered with trash, and laundry is hanging everywhere to dry.

Our final visit on the Kibera day was to a NGO-sponsored community medical clinic. It was quite nice. Our professor said that the maternity ward there was as nice as many hospitals in Kenya. The clinic had facilities for running medical tests and for performing various procedures. They even have a garden in back which they use to cook their own meals. But again, the NGO faces problems, such as the fact that sometimes their cash flow is low and they have to go for months…up to two months at times, without paying their staff. In an already impoverished area, one can imagine how challenging this is for the staff, yet they probably feel they have little choice: their community needs them.

So visiting Kibera was a surprising experience, better than expected, yet bittersweet. Because you do feel a solidarity for the people there. You know and realize that a common humanity binds us all. It does and it doesn’t. It is much more complex than that, and we have to be careful to think that we can gain even a glimpse into their lives. Yet I feel hopeful about the incredible resourcefulness and adaptability of Kiberans. I also feel it is important for “outsiders” like our group to visit, to know something about Kibera, to be able to lend solidarity to their fight for their basic human rights, for formal recognition from their own government and perhaps most of all, for a transcendence and transformation of the abject poverty surrounding them.

HAMOMI:

Today we had the opportunity to visit HAMOMI Children’s Center. Hamomi is the internship site where two of our classmates, Becca and Ian, are interning. It was interesting to see the school center and the classroom buildings. All of the buildings are made from sheet metal, and the kid’s desks and benches are all wooden. The kids play soccer outside on a sloping hill. Across the river, women are washing clothes. Apparently, on hot days, the kids sometimes strip naked and swim in the river. A pile of garbage is burning near the soccer field. Most of the kids at the school are orphans, but they have a type of “adopted family” which has agreed to let them sleep with them. Any kids that don’t have such an adopted family are able to stay with the school director.

I enjoyed playing Frisbee and soccer with the kids. They are SO GOOD at soccer; I could barely get my feet on the ball. We stayed and played and enjoyed our time with the kids. The kids astounded me. Even though, they do not have parents, clean clothes, their own homes, any school supplies . . . they still smile. They still race your friends down the soccer field. They still laugh and hug their friends. They still climb a tree and hang out on the branches. Like two different worlds…yet all of us, all of these students from Kenya and the US, inhabit the same planet, all have hearts and souls, dreams and aspirations. I wish we would have more and greater opportunity to learn from one another. I wish there was greater understanding and less fear and alienation.

God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change;
courage to change the things I can;
and wisdom to know the difference.

--Reinhold Niebuhr

Deeply grateful for this learning experience. Tomorrow, we are hiking on Mount Kenya…and then our wonderful Program Assistant, Erin, is giving us all a cooking lesson and dinner!

Elephant Orphanage and Giraffe Center

Last weekend, we visited an elephant orphanage and then a giraffe center. The animals were amazing to see in person! As you can see, we were able to feed the giraffes.

The baby elephants were too much - see video below of them drinking water with their cute little trunks. The warthogs you can see were more than a little grumpy. At one point, the baby elephants had to chase them out of their territory, and they were quite put out about it.

Week 2 of Internships

Here, you will find photos from last weekend. These are from the Ngecha Ats Festival.

A lot has happened since I last posted. Time here seems to stand still, but at the same time, it seems to accelerate. For example, our group has been having weekly potluck meetings to discuss and plan for our upcoming hands-on human rights project in Loitoiktok Village. When reflect on our meeting last week, it seemed like it was at least 3 weeks ago. I guess that is because we are fitting so much in each day, and that each moment, experience, sight, etc. is something special. Like when we were driving to Ngecha, I didn’t want to sleep for one minute for fear that I would miss out on something interesting or a unique or interesting sight during our journey.

My internship continues to go well. I feel extremely fortunate to have the supervisor that I do, Javas. He is a great boss – funny, jovial, easy-going, accessible and supportive. Today I was asked to work on an exciting project. The Kenya Human Rights Institute is setting the groundwork to build a collaborative partnership with a human rights center at a university in England. I was asked to write up the concept paper / proposal for the initial conversation with the center. This in my mind is the perfect assignment! Since I have worked in international education, I have experience with Memoranda of Understanding (MOUs) and such. Plus, it sounds like a very interesting and dynamic potential partnership. The center in England is especially interested in Africa and the human rights movement here, as well as innovative developments such as the implementation of technology (especially cell phone technology).

Class this week was good. Our seminar was (per usual) interesting and useful. We talked about the various means of enforcement of human rights norms and standards. Examples include “shame and blame,” policy advocacy, mass media, economic sanctions, trade sanctions, diplomatic pressure, bringing groups or individuals through the International Criminal Court system, and much more.

Tomorrow is another internship day AND then on Friday, we are visiting one of the informal settlements. We had a program meeting tonight (for which our professor cooked Kenyan food for 15 hungry students; he slaved away all afternoon) where we talked about this experience, what to expect, how we feel, etc. I will write more about the informal settlement visit soon.

Ngecha Art Festival, Safari Animals and Human Rights

(**Photos to be posted soon...)

NGECHA

It was an eventful weekend. As I mentioned, Saturday was spent traveling to Ngecha Village for the Ngecha Artist’s Association art exhibition and cultural festival. The art was exquisite: vibrant, colorful, happy, and unique. Rarely does one have the opportunity to meet the actual artists and to purchase art directly from them – so that was great! Some of my favorite pieces are featured above.

Elephants, giraffes, warthogs and rhinos

Sunday we visited an elephant orphanage, where we saw maybe a dozen baby elephants. They were totally adorable. Actually, some of them were so young they could barely support their own weight or stand up. Some kept slipping in the mud, and they were quite playful with each other. We also saw warthogs and a rhinoceros.
Next, we visited the giraffe orphanage, which was awesome. We got to feed the giraffes, and it was super majestic to watch the giraffes in their natural habitat. Some were quite friendly, and let us pet them. Although the giraffes we saw were babies, they were already quite big. I just like them; they are cute and friendly creatures.

Nairobi, human rights…life here

Tonight has been chill, reading lots of Kenya Human Rights Commission (KHRC) materials, and preparing for the week. It is quite sad to read about the human rights violations which have taken place in the past, and which continue here in Kenya. The worst recent human rights tragedy was the post-election violence in 2008. It is truly horrific to read the accounts of what transpired during that time. Yet it is also amazing to see how people seem to have healed and how the country is moving forward despite this painful past. The work I see my colleagues at KHRC is especially inspiring, and I am both heartened and hopeful to see such organized, thoughtful and effective human rights practitioners.

On another note, I do have to say that I am experiencing a fair degree of culture shock. It is an interesting experience for me, as a former study abroad advisor, to evaluate whether I can and do actually take my own advice! I used to repeat something that a speaker told me as an undergraduate at our study abroad orientation. She basically said that one day is enough to get down and depressed about culture shock, then you need to get over it, move forward, embrace your surroundings, be open, and truly enjoy the experience. I am trying to do just that!

The culture shock is brought about by the differences, large and small between Kenya and the US. Living in a “developing country” you begin to see how fortunate you are to have the amenities that many of us do in N. America, Europe, the global North… For example, there are no washers and dryers here, internet connectivity is intermittent, there are rolling blackouts, and we don’t always have hot water for our showers. Perhaps the strangest feeling is that of being constantly walled off from the world – there are guards which stand to protect our apartment complex, and there are even guards outside of my internship site. They are also in the shopping centres and most businesses.

On top of that, the disparity and inequality here is haunting. On the way to Ngecha this weekend, we drove past what literally looked like a small palace perched in the side of a hill. It was fenced off from the rest of the world. But right on the other side of the fence off to the right side was a mini slum – what must be the servant’s quarters. This image has stuck with me, and is just a small indicator of the inequality which permeates Nairobi. We drove past Kibera slum today…it is expansive, with corrugated metal roofs stretching as far as your eyes can see. The slum is brown and gray in colour. Sadly, Kibera slum and the other informal settlements in Nairobi are among those hit worst during the 08 post election violence.

The informal settlements here are such a complex issue. In a sense, the slums function quite well, they provide a modicum of shelter for individuals too poor to secure other housing. Monthly rent is about $7 USD. Yet there are inherently dangerous. The literature I read claims that women and girls are in constant danger, that they cannot use the restroom for fear of an attack. There is also poor sanitation. But solutions are elusive, never simple. As an outsider, I find it important to be very humble to the fact that we just do not understand the intricate system and reality of the informal settlements. Our professor is adamant that we will never know and warns us against a sense of false solidarity. I know this intellectually, yet my heart still tugs in my chest…isn’t there a better way? Can’t there be more equality? Why can’t people be safe and have their basic human rights protected?

It seems appropriate to quote the words of Lila Watson and the Australian aborigines, who stated together that, "If you have come here to help me, then you are wasting your time…But if you have come because your liberation is bound up with mine, then let us work together."

Every Cloud Has a Silver Lining ~

This was the view from my apartment balcony this morning. Gorgeous!

And a quote for us as well:

I am seeking, I am striving, I am in it with all my heart. – Vincent Van Gogh


Again - enjoy your weekend!

Jambo Bwana!

Jambo Bwana! (Kiswahili for “Hello Mister!” and the title of a fun kid’s song our class learned to help us practice Swahili)

Today was another good day; we had Swahili this morning for 2 hours, followed by lunch at the Kenya National Club (where we also have class, it is kind of like a country club) and then our human rights seminar. The topic today was the interaction between human rights, Kenyan national law and international law. We read a case about burial rights for a prominent Kenyan attorney, which was fascinating because it outlined the differences between customary, common and African cultural laws in Kenya, and the interactions between these various systems, as well as when which framework has jurisdiction. As always, our class engaged in an exciting discussion.

Our course content and just the virtue of our human rights work, internship, navigating a new culture and constantly being alert is challenging. I think all of us constantly feel a certain amount of tension. But as I mentioned before, I see this tension as a positive thing, and that it is teaching us all important lessons.

I must say that I am very impressed with the Kenyan human rights movement, especially my colleagues at the Kenya Human Rights Commission. The movement is (for the most part) finely tuned, well-organized and effective. There are differences in approach and key issues between here and the US, but also many parallels as well as best practices that can inform human rights in both countries.

After class we were fortunate to have the rest of the day to ourselves. We stocked up on groceries, went to Java House (Kenyan equivalent of Starbucks, but with better food – sandwiches, quiche, salads, even milk shakes!). Then, following a nice workout via a Jillian Michaels workout DVD, some of us headed out for Indian food. The meal was great – Kenya has a fairly good-sized Indian population, so there are a lot of Indian restaurants. Really excellent food, some of the best Indian food I have ever had.

What was interesting about dinner was…half way through we experienced our first Kenyan power outage! Of course, the staff at the restaurant handled it quite deftly, just brining over candle lanterns immediately. My roommates and I actually found it to be quite a fun adventure. What can you do?

Things definitely operate at a slower pace here, but I am getting used to it. In fact, it will be a good thing in teaching me greater patience. Traffic definitely slows thing down, and you just can’t count on getting things done within a certain period of time as you can in the States. Just for example, our afternoon coffee took like 2 hours vs. the 3 minute SBUX stop at home. I definitely try my best ot view this as an interesting cultural experience. We will see if I can succeed with that.

Looking forward to more to come, but savoring every moment.

Hey, have a great weekend!

2 days of Internship Adventure

The past two days I have been continuing to intern at the Kenya Human Rights Commission (KHRC). My colleagues have all been very kind in taking the time to meet with me, show me around, introduce me, etc.

Yesterday one of the other interns took me out for lunch at the JaJa shopping centre near KHRC. To get there, I enjoyed my first adventure on a matatu. The matatus are shared vans and an experience in their own right. Many of them are decorated in unique and creative ways, like the one above: “nothing to something.”

I am very pleased with my internship site and experience so far. KHRC is a clear leader in human rights in Kenya, the Greater Horn of Africa, and beyond. The staff is impeccably well-organized. I have already been able to conduct quite a few informational interviews to learn more about what their day to day positions entail. One of the Senior Program Officers today told me all about her position. It was impressive, and so interesting, to learn more about her work. One thing that stood out to me from our conversation was that KHRC is working very hard to build their social action network and team. They are working to include the church, teachers, lawyers and the elders of the community in their work. The church because of its influence, teachers because education is so important and valued, lawyers due to the importance of legal advocacy and professionalism and elders because they are greatly esteemed in Kenya culture, and apparently have great access to politicians and those in power, especially in the village.

Tomorrow we have Swahili class, followed by more human rights coursework. Our Professor has been in Loitokitok, his home village, making preparations for our future visit there to evaluate, and determine if/what may be appropriate in terms or renovating a girl’s dorm located near a school, where many young girls seek refuge from early marriage, domestic violence or cultural practices.

This weekend we will be visiting Ngecha, a local village which has a vibrant artist’s community. Apparently, there are also acrobats, a fashion show, food and other interesting entertainment. Sunday, as I mentioned, we will be visiting the baby giraffes – I learned that the refuge also has baby hippopotamuses. As if the experience needed to be any cuter.

Wishing you all a very happy weekend. More soon ~ ~ ~

Swahili and Human Rights Review

This morning we took a 2 hour Swahili course. Our new teacher’s name is Dr. Martin and he is great! VERY caring, kind, and an excellent teacher. I love it when language teachers (especially) are active and creative. Martin was just that – we sang the “Jambo Bwana” song and were able to also learn a bit more about Kenyan culture.

After a lunch break, we launched into a nice human rights and international law review. It was really helpful to have a review of the fundamental human rights treaties, declarations, history and context as related to international law. This will mesh nicely with next week’s topic, which will cover human rights as related to national Kenyan law.

It is impressive to review the strides human rights practitioners have made in the past century. Much has been accomplished, yet much work remains.

We had a brief program meeting after our coursework, which was very helpful for all of us. All of the students were able to debrief and share their experiences thus far. It seems the contrast tour has been the most impactful in terms of learning and experience for most of the group. It is helpful to be able to share our experiences, struggles, learning, etc. with one another, and we are fortunate to have such phenomenal program staff who provide the perfect level and type of support.

I keep thinking of a passage I quoted in my capstone project as perhaps the best way to describe the program so far. Westley, Zimmerman and Patton (2006) who discuss the power of social movements in a recent book entitled Getting to Maybe: How the World is Changed. Westley et al. describe a pre-existing energy and engagement, stating that once those seeking social change tap into this energy, they often experience a torrent of support. “There are forces in the natural order of things that are the real source of transformation. That is the other side of power,” (128). This “flow,” as it is often called in sports, was what Bob Geldof experienced when he was organizing the Live Aid development fundraising organization. Flow refers to a kind of heightened awareness and achievement, and also at times the ease with which social entrepreneurs achieve their goals, or by which social change or social movements occur, which Westley et. al. attribute to tapping into an energy and power beyond themselves (129).

I know that our professor and the program staff have worked very hard to facilitate this program, but I have to also believe that this program is successfully tapping into some of the social change energy flow cited by Westley et al, and has thus come together especially well. In fact, that is the best way I can describe the energy surrounding this program. I feel a constant tension within that can only signify a deep learning, a shifting of my internal landscape.

Kenya Human Rights Commission

Before I report on my first day at KHRC...I am including a photo from the contrast tour we took on Sunday. This is from a part of Nairobi that we were told is "lower middle class."

Monday was the first day of my internship. (Each student on this program has been assigned a human rights-related internship site.) The Kenya Human Rights Commission (KHRC) is one of the leading human rights organizations in Eastern Africa. Their work, accomplishments and publications are impressive. I am interning at the Kenya Human Rights Institute, which is a research branch of KHRC, with an ultimate goal of establishing a human rights university in Kenya! This is exciting, especially in terms of possible collaboration with the University of Washington and the new Center for Human Rights!

There are 4 other interns at KHRC, all of whom are very impressive. One has been nominated as a Global Changemaker, and will be soon leaving KHRC to work on furthering the Millennium Development Goals, and to hold global leaders responsible for the lack of progress in achieving these goals. Many of the other interns are actually attorneys, advocating for human rights. I know I will have a lot to learn at KHRC!

It is also fascinating to hear what the other students on the program are experiencing at their internship sites. Some of the other interns are interning at legal advocacy organizations, for example which provide advocacy and legal consultation to immigrants and refugees, or who train communities on grassroots organizing and community-building, direct service provision, women’s rights, and much more. I know we will learn so much from sharing our experiences with one another.

Today was have class, on international law and human rights. Tomorrow and Thursday we are interning again, and more class on Friday. This will be a typical work week schedule. This coming weekend we will enjoy a local art exhibition and then on Sunday we are visiting a baby giraffe refuge. I have to admit that I am *really* excited to see baby giraffes.

Again, the brilliance of the program design cannot be emphasized enough – we have been given the opportunity to experience the optimal combination of theory and praxis. I feel so fortunate to be a part of this program.

Miss all of you at home, and send my love!!

Contrast Tours

Today our group went on a “contrast tour” of Nairobi. Starting in the city centre, we then headed to the “leafy neighborhoods” and the Eastlands area. The “leafy neighborhoods” are titled as such because there are so many trees and greens in this part of Nairobi. This contrasts with the poorer sections of town, were trees cannot be sustained due to population density and the inability of the environment to withstand such stress. This affluent part of Nairobi includes many embassies, many extremely modern shopping malls (where one could easy imagine they are in any major metropolitan city in the US), government offices, some NGO offices, expat communities, international schools, etc. Moving on the Eastlands, this is an area that includes a representation of lower middle class and middle, middle class. The contrast between these two sections of town was stark and overwhelming.
I feel that taking this contrast tour at the beginning of our stay here in Nairobi, by providing this context, further proves the sheer brilliance of this program. I really appreciate this perspective, and believe it will be immensely valuable as we approach our internships and coursework this summer. So yes, the program design continues to be brilliant, continues to astound each day. The other students and I are literally in awe that we have this learning opportunity. It will take a while to process what we are observing and learning while here, and to find ways to integrate it into our lives.
Yesterday, we also went on a contrast tour of sorts. We visited two different markets, which were very different. In the morning, we visited a fruit and vegetable market which is definitely not for tourists, and mostly patronized by local people. The first thing anyone said to me was from one Kenyan guy who said to me, “It was a mistake that I was born in Africa.” The comment was jarring and deeply emotional for me. I didn’t know what to say. The comment immediately reminded me of the following quote in Dambisa Moyo’s book Dead Aid, where she cites a plea found on the bodies of Guinean stowaways who died fleeing Africa:
“We suffer enormously in Africa. Help us. We have problems in Arica. We lack rights as children. We have war and illness, we lack food…We want to study, and we ask you to help us to study so we can be like you, in Africa.”

It is definitely challenging to know the right words in the face of such difficult comments. A much different experience, and the second leg of our “contrast tour” yesterday was a visit to the “Maasai Market” which was pretty much different from the local fruit and vegetable market in every way. There were so many tourists there. It was clean, organized, regimented and calm. Where the fruit and vegetable market was pure chaos, the Maasai Market was relatively calm, very organized and fairly standard in terms of other markets I have visited.

These experiences have provided deep learning and insights. As I said, I am grateful to place my internship and coursework in the context of this experience.

Today is the 4th of July – happy holidays to my friends and family and home. As a friend mentioned to me this morning, today was like no other 4th I have ever spent, and likely different than any I will experience in the future.

I want to say thank you – to you for reading about my experiences in Kenya, to Jen’s friends and to Jen’s wonderful Aunt Linda , for sponsoring me with the Caldwell scholarship – you give me much strength and fortitude, and thank you to my wonderful family and friends back home. Love you all very much.

Day 3

Learning . . .
Yesterday we had an all-day colloquium during which we were able to meet our field supervisors. The colloquium was laid out quite nicely, with group introductions, a keynote on the role of non-governmental organizations (NGOs) in human rights work in Kenya. There were also talks about the expected roles of the field supervisors and interns.
It was quite an inspiration to be in the same room with so many leaders in the field of human rights in Kenya. The organizations where students in our group will be interning are diverse – from women and girl’s issues, to immigrant and refugee work, to a children’s center nearby a slum.
During the discussion portion of the talk, it was interesting to hear about the site supervisor’s expectations and worries about accepting foreign interns. Many of them expressed worry about our understanding and acceptance of their culture. The students in our group tried to affirm that we are here to learn, here to approach our work humbly, that any experience and knowledge we can gain from our internship experience is valuable to us.
At the moment, a hot topic of discussion and debate is the proposed new constitution of Kenya. On August 4, this will be voted on. There are strong YES and NO coalitions, and it is quite a divisive and controversial topic. Interestingly, one of the site supervisors mentioned that it would be of value for us to lend our experience regarding the implementation of freedom of speech and other concepts which are foundational in the US, but have yet to be enacted in Kenya. It is very interesting to be here in Kenya at the very moment that the new constitution is being debated and voted upon.
My site supervisor at the Kenya Human Rights Commission’s name is Javaas. He gives a first impression as being very nice, easy-going, and having a great sense of humour. I am also sure of his passion for human rights – he said that at one point he got kicked out of school for voicing vocal opinions about his beliefs related to human rights.
Our colloquium was followed by a lovely dinner at Eastlands, a posh area of Nairobi. We had “nyoma choma” – basically a barbeque dinner. It was intense; they grilled an entire lamb and served it as the full animal. I tried to keep an open mind! For us vegetarians, there was ugali – a cornmeal shaped into a ball and eaten with the hands, boiled spinach, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cabbage and rice.
Of course, we watched the World Cup and again enjoyed amazing discussions. I sat at a table with some friends and 2 site supervisors, one from Haki Jami, which works with low-income individuals, right to education, and ministers to one of the informal settlements in Nairobi, and one from the Nairobi Hospital Gender Violence Recovery Unit (GVRU), which works with individuals who have been victim to violent crimes. It is very sobering and difficult to hear the stories that these front-line practitioners have to tell. The gentleman from GVRU had an interesting approach – stating that he views the victim and the perpetrator with equal compassion because often those who commit acts of violence have been victims themselves in the past. I asked him how he deals with the intensity, challenge and heartbreak from his work, and was glad to hear that he has a therapist to help him process the secondary trauma involved in such work.
Today, we are going to 2 different markets – one for fresh fruits and vegetables, and one called the Masaai Market, where one can buy handicrafts and other (touristy) types of souvenirs. We also already have a lot of reading to do.
Have a good weekend - signing off…

Day 2 in Nairobi

Day 2 in Nairobi:

We did a lot yesterday. We were introduced to Nairobi. After purchasing and activating our new cell phones and a lovely African lunch (for me - the vegetarian - ☺ this was boiled spinach and rice – very nice and healthy, actually☺), we went on a van tour of the city centre. John, our in-country Program Director, advised us which parts of the city we may go to, as well as the parts of Nairobi to which we are never to venture.

After the tour, we went shopping at Nakkumat, the local superstore, sort of the Kenyan equivalent of Fred Meyer. It of course was a bit overwhelming . . . very few brands or products we recognized. Shopping during my time spent in Germany is not even comparable. But we managed to buy staples for our first few days here. It is fun to plan all of this out with my wonderful roommates, Abby and Maggie, whom I feel fortunate to be sharing this adventure with.

In the afternoon we had time for a break (during which I fought the urge to sleep…trying to fight jet lag and get into a routine) before our initial program meeting. The meeting was intense. Professor Ngugi emphasized academic rigor, expectations, and the need for extreme caution and security at all times. We are in very good hands, though, and fortunate to have John, Patrick and Mugake (our drivers) to help us navigate Nairobi.

What are my first impressions? First, Nairobi is a city of contrasts. It is raw and real. Traffic is intense; I have no idea how people can even drive here – you have to be so assertive and bold. Kenyans are very sharp dressers, as our Swahili teacher told us. Ngugi said that in Kenya, first impressions are everything. It also strikes me that Kenyans generally seem very kind, open, friendly and good natured. There is also the sense that one must relax, take it easy and “go with the flow.” For example, buying our cell phones was expected to take about 5 minutes; instead we spent 2 hours there. But in Kenya, we are told, this is just normal. You just wait – so different than the US where everything is much more regimented . . . time here is much more fluid.

Today, we have Swahili class, followed by our program colloquium. We will be meeting with our internship site supervisors, and enjoy a lecture on “The Role of NGOs in Human Rights Enforcement and Advocacy in Kenya.”

I feel really in my element here. My belief in following your heart has only been affirmed. I feel in many ways that this program found me, I feel so drawn to this work, so passionate and committed.

I look forward to learning, observing, meeting various human rights leaders, and to experiencing how human rights is approached in Kenya.

So, things are off to a good start, and I look forward to much more to come.

Hoping that things are going well with each one of you. Miss you, family and friends, and sending you love from Kenya ~~ !!

KARIBU KENYA!

KARIBU KENYA!

I. Love. It. Here. ☺

We arrived late last night after a full 24 hours of flying. We were met at the airport by our smiling Program Assistant, Erin, and wondering in-country Program Director John as well as the 2 van drivers, Patrick and Mwake.

Arriving in the University District, where we will be staying while we are here, we were met by our star Professor, Joel Ngugi. Professor Ngugi is a Professor Law at the University of Washington, Director of the UW African Studies Program, and is the brilliance behind this wonderful program. As I have said before, I am deeply humbled, and feel so fortunate to have the opportunity to learn more him and the other students and teachers shaping this program.

After settling in, we enjoyed a Kenyan meal prepared by Professor Ngugi’s sister, Lucy. I like the Kenyan food so far – lovely, flat chapatti bread and “ugali” – cornmeal porridge style dishes with mashed pumpkin leaves and corn and a mixed spinach and greens dish.

I woke up this morning underneath our mosquito net. We are all taking Malarone to ward off Malaria and Norfolk is quite protected, so the bed net seems a perhaps superfluous measure. However, I find it romantic to wake up beneath the soft light of the net. It reminds me of the dream catchers used by the Ojibwe Indians which I grew up with in Minnesota. The dream catchers are pretty, web-like ornaments that you display over your bed, in the hopes that they will “catch” any bad dreams that might attempt to visit you during the night. I hope that the bed net will act the same way for me.

Already I am so excited, anxious and curious about our time here, about how the next two months will unfold. Already the students who arrived before us have been engaging in deep discussions about judgment and predetermination. Thus far, that has been my favorite part of this course, the depth and authenticity of our classroom discussions, the level of challenge and expectation set out for us, how the status quo is often shattered, our comfort zones disassembled, our previously held misconceptions forced into realignment. What once perhaps made our reality more comfortable, simpler, now becomes unacceptable.

I feel this is often the case with human rights work: we may wish in some way that we didn’t know about various injustices, various wrongs, but once we know, once our eyes our opened, we have no choice but to learn more, to educate ourselves, to evaluate, discover how we might educate ourselves and others to in some small way be a part of the solution. Such is the case with the constructs we build, the stories we tell ourselves, the assumptions we have, the lens through which we build the world: what if these have all in some ways been wrong? What can be done to correct, to reevaluate, to be a part of the solution rather than a part of the problem?

We have a great group of students. 13 are undergrads, 2 are grad students, and we study disciplines as diverse as Comparative History of Ideas, Law, Societies and Justice, Global Health, business, public policy and more. I feel that already we have adopted a sense of Harambe, of unity, shared community and vision. I wish we had more of this in the US. My master’s capstone project examined social capital, and the decline of social capital in the US community. Such an increased sense of Harambe, community, teamwork, and shared vision would be powerful in working to revitalize our own communities.

On a more practical note . . . today will be spent exploring our neighborhood here in Nairobi. We will visit the pharmacy, grocery store, etc to run various errands, get our cell phones and SIM cards, and generally settle in. Later today we have our first class. Tomorrow, we have a symposium and more coursework. This weekend is mostly free time, but with a “contrast tour” of Nairobi provided on Sunday.

Thanks so much for following. Sending love and light to you!